Oregon Outside the Pinot Noir Box

September 12, 2020

BY JOSH RAYNOLDS | SEPTEMBER 03, 2020

For many wine lovers, Oregon, and especially the Willamette Valley, is all Pinot Noir, all the time. Perhaps no other region in the New World is so closely associated with a single variety. And yet there’s so much more happening here, especially with Chardonnay. White wine and reds not made from Pinot Noir are approaching almost half of our annual Oregon coverage, which is a remarkable development over the last decade.

The last five vintages, which have been uniformly excellent in Oregon, presented winemakers with a golden opportunity to produce truly world-class wines from all varieties, and they responded with impressively consistent aplomb. Chardonnay, in particular, has become a deadly serious subject for the state’s growers and winemakers, as evidenced by the sheer number of outstanding renditions of that variety that I have been sampling recently. While Chardonnay (along with every other variety, for that matter) has long stood in the shadow of the omnipresent Pinot Noir, that’s emphatically no longer the case. The best examples – and their number is growing exponentially – deserve to be compared to top California bottlings, and, for the time being at least, they mostly deliver similar quality and complexity at relatively lower prices. I suspect that will be changing, though, as wine lovers notice what’s going on here. 

Some of Oregon’s finest and most graceful Chardonnays are grown in the compact Ribbon Ridge AVA, which lies within the Chehalem Mountains appellation.

Two thousands-sixteen presented the Willamette Valley with more classic weather conditions than 2015 and 2014. There was an early spring, with budbreak mostly occurring three weeks ahead of schedule. A hot May accelerated the vines’ growth, whileJune, July and August brought moderate and often cool conditions, and then things heated up again the last week of August. Thanks to the temperate summer, acidity levels in the fruit remained high, while sugar levels stayed on the low side. Grapes were generally smaller than usual, and the clusters were made up of plenty of hens and chicks (a mix of large and small berries that the French call millerandage), which results in wines of both ripeness and freshness.Harvest began at the end of August in many cases, as the weather took a warmer turn. Things really started to heat up around mid-September, but by then most of the fruit was already in. 

In 2017 there was abundant rain throughout the spring and into the beginning of summer, and conditions were often quite cool, which set the stage for wines marked by energy and freshness. And that’s exactly what the winemakers produced, despite some heat spikes during the summer. These are classically built, lively whites that emphasize detail and delicacy over richness and power, but they in no way lack for flavor intensity. I suspect that many of the Chardonnays will be quite long-lived, although their vibrancy makes them pretty compelling right now. Fans of Old World renditions of the variety are going to find plenty to like, and I’ll bet that these wines are going to turn quite a few heads, if they haven’t already.

A cold winter in 2018 was followed by lots of early spring rain. The weather warmed up in May and then took a distinctly hot turn in June. High temperatures continued through August, with basically no rain, but there were no dangerous heat spikes to accelerate sugar levels or cause dramatic loss of acidity. It was colder in September, with notably chilly nights, which slowed down ripening, much to everybody’s relief. Invigorating rain in the middle of the month relieved and energized the vines at just the right moment, allowing harvest to begin in the third week of the month. While the wines are mostly deeper and more fruit-driven than their 2017 siblings, they are by no means brawny or marked by overt ripeness or richness. In most cases the wines will show very well on the young side, and while they may not age as long or as gracefully as those of the previous vintage, that’s a matter of little importance to the vast majority of Chardonnay drinkers who enjoy their wines before their fourth or, maybe, fifth birthday.

Chardonnay’s Promise Fulfilled

The Willamette Valley is blessed with a lot of old Chardonnay vines, since most of the pioneering vineyards were planted with it alongside Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, but not unexpectedly, Pinot’s success was Chardonnay’s loss starting in the 1980s. Many of those original Chardonnay vines were replanted to Pinot to accommodate market demand, and production of serious versions of Chardonnay quickly diminished, which no doubt helped to push the wines deeper into Pinot’s growing shadow. There were a handful of outstanding Chardonnays being made by dedicated wineries, but compared to Pinot Noir they represented quite literally a drop in the bucket.

Most of those old vines were and are from the Wente clone, which made its way to Oregon during the initial plantings of the mid- to late 1980s. Later, Dijon Chardonnay clones, which are generally earlier-ripening and higher-yielding, became the norm, and while some outstanding wines were being made here and there, they got little love from consumers, which was probably not a concern for producers as so little wine was being made, at least compared to Pinot.

Much of the Chardonnay that was coming out of Oregon in the 1990s and 2000s was, frankly, unexciting. High yields took precedence over quality as most of the wines were viewed as cash cows, albeit small ones, and the variety was scarcely found in the national marketplace. What consumers did find was, with rare exception, innocuous and thin, or over-oaked and under-flavored, which did little to enhance the variety’s image for most domestic Chardonnay drinkers.

The first indications that change was afoot began in the late 2000s and early 2010s. Growers and attentive winemakers knew the region had enormous potential to produce great Chardonnay, and a brave few started making the effort to take advantage of that fact. As the decade continued, examples of truly fine Chardonnays turned from a trickle into what is now a steady and growing flow. More and more top sites are being planted to the variety, often with stunning success. Overt oak influence is seriously declining, thankfully, and more time and care in the vineyards and cellars has resulted in wines of real concentration as well as complexity. The market is definitely taking notice.

Thanks to its cool, ocean-influenced climate, the Eola Amity Hills is the source for white wines of distinct freshness and balance.

Getting Serious, Slowly, with Other Varieties

Pinot Gris has a long history here, as scattered plantings of the variety existed alongside Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the 1960s and early 1970s. But it was the rare instance when wineries gave it much if any real love. A number of producers still refer to Pinot Gris as “an invasive weed,” and given the blandness of most examples into the 2010s, such derision isn’t unexpected. The number of fine Pinot Gris bottlings is slowly growing, but at a far slower pace than that of Chardonnay.

Pinot Blanc, which was also planted here and there in the early days, is now being taken seriously by a few wineries, and based on what I’ve seen recently, it shows great potential. Unfortunately, the wines will likely never command the prices of Chardonnay, or even Pinot Gris, so for now, truly top-drawer Pinot Blancs will continue to be rare birds.

One of Oregon’s best-kept secrets is still Riesling. Some of the best New World examples of the variety are being produced here, in both dry and less-dry iterations. Those made by Trisaetum and Brooks, for example, have been truly stunning in the 2010s, a fact not lost on forward-thinking sommeliers across the country who have become strong advocates for the wines thanks to their purity and fine detail. I strongly urge Riesling-loving readers to give these wines a shot, as I think that they’ll be highly impressed, even when to comparing them to the benchmark Teutonic versions.

More obscure white varieties such as Melon de Bourgogne, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer are still a presence in the Willamette Valley, but their production is usually so minuscule that they are pretty much winery-direct bottlings, with small though often dedicated audiences.

Rhône Varieties Make Their Case

In the southern Rogue Valley, there’s some real excitement around Viognier and also Marsanne and Roussanne, but the latter two varieties are still scarce. Given the region’s success with Syrah and, increasingly, Grenache, this won’t come as a surprise. I’ve seen an increasing, well-deserved interest in the wines outside of Oregon, but finding them continues to be a task best accomplished by sourcing directly from the producers. The wines lean to the lively, Old World side, and pricing is generally quite fair given quality.

Syrah has emerged as a serious, if obscure, wild card in Oregon, and while there are still just a few examples being produced, some of them are among the best the New World has to offer. Gargantua, a new-ish project from Josh Bergstrom, of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay) fame, is producing a truly stunning Syrah, as are Amalie Robert, Cristom and Penner-Ash. Then there’s the Rogue Valley, which, as I noted above, is solidifying itself as an attention-worthy source for Syrah, especially at Cowhorn. 

The first vines planted in the Willamette Valley, in 1965, were in the rolling Dundee Hills and many still survive and produce some of Oregon’s top Chardonnays.

The Outliers

Recent vintages have presented me with the opportunity to taste some outstanding examples of Willamette Valley Gamay, usually sourced from small, old plantings, mainly in great sites. The wines are generally more generous in style than those of Beaujolais, but still vibrant and well-delineated. Production is tiny, but these are definitely worth the search, which is probably best approached by contacting wineries directly.

Pinot Meunier, a cousin of Pinot Noir, is a no-brainer when it comes to potential in the Willamette Valley, and the examples being made by Eyrie and Amalie Robert speak to the great possibilities that exist here. But given market realities, I’m not holding my breath that many growers will soon turn much of their attention to this variety at the expense of Pinot Noir.

Sparkling Wines

There’s a fairly long history of Méthode Champenoise sparkling wines in the Willamette Valley, led by Argyle, which was and continues to be the pace-setter for high-end, high-quality bubbly in the region. Over the last decade they have been joined by a number of other noteworthy producers, such as Soter Vineyards (who have been at it for some time), Pashey (from Trisaetum), Brooks, Flâneur, Kramer and Roco, which is produced by old-timer Rollin Soles, the original winemaker at Argyle. All are worthy of attention. Willamette Valley Vineyards is taking a big plunge into the category with a new facility dedicated to sparkling wine, so I’m sure we’ll be seeing an increasing presence of these wines in the coming years.

Summing Things Up

The sheer number of noteworthy non-Pinot Noir wines from Oregon continues to grow exponentially every year, this one being a prime example. While many of them are made in highly limited quantities there are scores of them that are worth hunting down, especially for readers who favor wines of energy and detail. As with Pinot Noir, this is truly a golden era for Oregon wine of a wide range of varieties and things don’t seem to be slowing down.

Slow Wine USA awards Spiral 36 “Snail” and “Everyday” prizes

February 15, 2020

Greetings Cowhorners,

Our 2018 Spiral 36 has done it again, awarded the Snail Prize and the Daily Wine Prize from internationally respected Slow Wine.

What is Slow Wine? Slow Wine was founded with an innovative approach to share wine critiques with consumers from a different perspective than the traditional 100-point scale. They’ve adopted a more full-circle ideal that focuses on land stewardship, sense of place, value and quality. Much like food, they believe that wine must be good, clean and fair – not just good. We like that! Here’s what they thought about our 2018 Spiral 36:

The Snail Prize

Awarded to wineries whose values (high-quality wines, originality, respect for the land and environment) align with the Slow Food movement. Quality-price ratio is another factor that the editors consider. We are thrilled to have Spiral recognized for these things!

The Daily Wine Prize

Awarded to bottles that represent excellent value (under $30). I think we can all agree, the Spiral really does over deliver!

Along with the news of these two accolades came an invitation for Cowhorn to join the Slow Wine USA Tour 2020.  As you know, Cowhorn is a small but mighty crew, so while we won’t be able to make every city on the tour this year, we are thrilled to have Bill visiting San Francisco, Seattle and Denver to share our Spiral 36 with hundreds of industry professionals and press. What an honor!

Cheers,

Charlsie Lane, Tasting Room Manager

Cowhorn named “Best Biodynamic Winery & Agribusiness” in LuxLife Magazine’s Food and Drink Awards

January 18, 2020

Best Biodynamic Winery & Agribusiness – Oregon

2019 Food & Drink Awards, Lux Life Magazine

What an unexpected and delightful surprise to share with you. Though I’m not sure how LuxLife Magazine found Cowhorn, I am certain this is something we should be proud of! LuxLife Magazine has branded itself on “showcasing only the best of the best, so you can rest assured that you are at the very cutting edge of the latest luxury trends and high-end developments.”

I have to say the words commonly used to describe this publication, “glamorous” and “luxury,” aren’t in our daily vocabulary here at the farm. Practicing Biodynamic agriculture is actually quite the opposite: dirty! A lot of hard work goes into our vineyard and farm. It’s almost curious as to how a small family owned operation like ours could receive recognition such as this. But, when I step back and consider our final product, the highly regarded fine wines I get to share with people daily in our one of a kind Living Building Certified Tasting Room, it all makes sense. And, it makes me smile. I am grateful to know first hand both sides of our tiny Southern Oregon Company, luxury and land stewardship. Thank you LuxLife for recognizing this, and thank all of you for supporting Cowhorn.

Sincerely,

Charlsie Lane, Tasting Room Manager

Sip Northwest Best of Wine

November 20, 2019

Fall 2019 

Every Spring, SIP Northwest magazine embarks on their annual journey to discover the best beers, ciders and wines being crafted in the Pacific Northwest. Because we were so excited about the wines we prepared to release to our club members during SIP’s call for entries, we decided to share the Spring Release with them.

SIP has become one of the Northwest’s most trusted guides for everything food and beverage, focusing on local, unique, artisan and hand-crafted deliciousness. Of course we want to be a part of that! While we are always tickled when reviews come in, we were truly knocked over when all the wines we shared with them were selected by the judges as their favorites!

2018 Spiral 36 
Judge’s Pick – White Wine Blend
$28 per bottle

2016 Grenache 6
Bronze – Single Varietal Grenache
$45 per bottle

2015 Sentience
Judge’s Pick – Single Varietal Syrah
$55 per bottle

Cowhorn’s Green Tasting Room

November 6, 2019

September/October 2019 By Barbara Barrielle

When Bill and Barbara Steele left Wall Street and bought 117 acres in the Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon, they departed from the norm. They planted Rhone varietals because their research indicated syrah, viognier, grenache, roussanne and marsanne would do well on the farm. And the grapes have flourished. Year and year winemaker Bill Steele earns awards and accolades as the top Rhone producer in Oregon.

Cowhorn’s wines have achieved near cult status, but what excites the Steeles is complete biodynamic farming and promoting a polyculture at the farm that incorporates crops that thrive together: grapes, lavender, cherries and an asparagus crop that tops 8,000 pounds and makes Cowhorn the foremost asparagus producer in Oregon. And, in one corner of the property a small orchard of hazelnut trees inoculated with Périgord truffles awaits the time when this patch yields its coveted crop.

When I called Bill to discuss Cowhorn’s tasting room building that is the first winery building to earn The Living Building Challenge and the first such in Oregon, he had to call me back because a local farmer had stopped by to inquire about vermicastings from worms, used to make high bacteria compost tea. This is par for the biodynamic course at Cowhorn.

The Living Building Challenge (LBC) is the considered the world’s most progressive and rigorous standard for green buildings, those with net-positive or net-zero energy that are free of toxins and have lower carbon footprints many times below a comparable commercial structure. For LBC certification, requirements are ambitious and must be maintained over twelve months of continual use.

Cowhorn’s achievements were not accomplished without a team dedicated to learning the Learning Building Challenge’s requirements then sourcing the materials and building constraints necessary for this carbon neutral standard achieved by about 20 buildings worldwide, including the Etsy headquarters in Brooklyn, NY, The Packard Foundation in Los Altos, CA, and the Bullitt Center in Seattle, WA.

In the case of Cowhorn, the team that brought their LBC certified tasting room from concept to reality was Green Hammer in Portland. Led by Alex Boetzel, director of operations and sustainability, Green Hammer did their research into the stringent requirements for design-build firms, vetting hundreds of materials and building methods to completely redefine “waste” in the built environment from water and energy to building materials. This resulted in a database Green Hammer can now apply  to upcoming projects seeking high “green” standards.

“We were a good team for bringing this project to fruition,” says Boetzel. “The tasting room at Cowhorn is a prime example of a project that represents our firm’s belief that the building industry can and does play a critical role in reversing climate change.”

“The certification is not easy to achieve. At the time Cowhorn was certified, only 20 such buildings internationally had earned the certification despite thousands of attempts by some of the world’s leading and largest architecture and construction firms.”

The team of Green Hammer and the Steeles has a joint commitment to biodynamic culture and reducing emissions in all aspects of living.

“Together we worked through obstacles and pursued incentives and grants that assist rural businesses to improve efficiency and lower energy consumption,” says Boetzel.

As the Living Building Challenge organization points out, “Cowhorn Vineyard and Gardens joins a handful of institutions around the world dedicated to creating inspiring, healthy buildings in which people live, work and play.” And, in Cowhorn’s case, they drink beautiful wines as well.

Plan your visit to Cowhorn at cowhornwine.com and learn more about visiting Southern Oregon at southernoregon.org.

Sip Sustainably

September/October 2019 By Sunset Magazine

Given the current obsession with natural wines (wine that is not manipulated in the cellar) and organic wines (made with grapes sourced from vineyards farmed using organic practices), it’s only a matter of time before consumers start demanding sustainable wine experiences. Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden (cowhornwine.com) in Oregon’s Applegate Valley is leading the way with an eco-minded tasting room constructed from Oregon cedar, recycled cork, and pigment-free plaster. The world’s first tasting room to have achieved the International Living Future Institute’s Living Building certification – the most stringent green-building standard – it also has net-zero energy usage. In California, Silver Oak (silveroak.com) is king of Cab as well as of environmental innovation. Their Oakville and Alexander Valley facilities were the first commercial wineries to be LEED Platinum certified, and at the new Anderson Valley winery they produce more energy than they consume and reuse 100 percent of the water from their cellar.

The Cork Dork’s Bucket List, 9 Wineries to Visit Before You Die

June 1, 2019

Spring 2019 

The Cork Dork’s Bucket List, 9 Wineries to Visit Before You Die

Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden 

>> JACKSONVILLE >> APPLEGATE VALLEY >> COWHORNWINE.COM

It’s not just grapes you’ll encounter in the vineyards of Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden, but resident wildlife too. Hidden away in the rugged foothills of the Siskiyou Mountains, where the Applegate River flows, this 117-acre, Demeter-certified biodynamic winery and farm stands out as a beacon for “wild” viticulture. What exactly does this look like?

Only 29 acres of the estate are in cultivation (25 in vineyard and four for produce) which reserves more than half of the land for wildlife habitat, forest and riparian areas. Densely planted vines race between myriad crops on the polyculture farm, where husband-and-wife owners Bill and Barbara Steele also grow celebrity-status purple asparagus, artichokes, lavender, heirloom orchard fruit and hazelnut trees inoculated with the Périgord black truffle.

Plus this unexpected twist: Instead of keeping wildlife out, the Steeles invite it in. The estate has porous borders, ensuring wildlife access to natural corridors, water and seasonal habitat. In turn, they believe the free and wild animal diversity boosts soil health and vitality. Which, naturally, leads to great wine.

You can taste the delicious Rhône-inspired wines in the winery’s most recent ecological marvel, a modern 2,200-square-foot tasting room that was awarded Living Building Challenge certification, the world’s highest and most rigorous standard for green buildings. It’s the first winery in the world to meet this zero-energy, toxin-free, regenerative space certification. Add in the magnificent views with the soaring hawks, towering fir trees and the experience is wildly memorable.

THE WINES

2017 SPIRAL 36, APPLEGATE VALLEY

Aromatics of spring flowers and stone fruit followed by hints of pineapple and pear from one of the most notable Rhône-inspired white blends in the region.

2014 RESERVE SYRAH, APPLEGATE VALLEY

Inky in the glass with black currants, cassis and spice-box aromas. Ripe black fruits and dark cherries lead on the palate with a hint of earth and dried herbs for an energetic finish.

2015 MOONRAKER, APPLEGATE VALLEY

All bright fruit from red raspberry to black plum in this blend of Grenache and Syrah that call for a dinner party with cassoulet.

Biodynamic Wines for Earth Day

April 19, 2018

April 12, 2018 By tastingpour@gmail.com 

We are a society of label readers, farmer’s market shoppers, CSA members, chicken dossier requesters (obligatory Portlandia reference) – so it stands to reason we would be curious about the origins of our wine and interested in Biodynamic® Wine.

Oregon is big on sustainable farming and winemaking.  There are a number of certifications that indicate a commitment to the earth.  For this Earth Day (April 22, 2018) we are highlighting one of the more ummmm interesting practices – Biodynamic Farming.

Jade was on KGW Portland Today on April 13th giving a brief overview, playing with cowhorns, and tasting some Oregon wines made with Biodynamic grapes.  Check out the link and  keep reading for more detailed info.

WHAT IS BIODYNAMIC FARMING?

First, Biodynamic farming is not exclusive to wine.  It can apply to all kinds of farming but we are going to focus on wine. The Biodynamic practice began with Austrian philosopher  Rudolf Steiner’s work Agriculture Lectures of 1924.  Steiner wrote this in response to farmers who following the Age of Industrialism, were concerned about the declining health and vitality of their crops, plants and animals.

Biodynamic philosophy is a holistic approach that  focuses on building healthy soil, treating the farm as a living organism, and the interaction of the soil, plants, animals, humans, and the cosmos.

HOW IS BIODYNAMIC DIFFERENT FROM ORGANIC?

Farms/vineyards certified Biodynamic must meet all of the requirements for Organic certification. Biodynamic is both more restrictive and prescriptive. In other words, there are products and practices allowed on Organic farms that are prohibited on Biodynamic farms.  AND there are things Biodynamic farmers are required to do (certain natural preparations for the soil and plants).  Keep reading for an example.

COWS, COMPOST, CALENDARS – TOOLS OF THE BIODYNAMIC TRADE

The most iconic animal of Biodynamic farming is the cow.  In Biodynamic farming  cow horns (from lactating cows) are filled with cow manure and buried for 4-6 months. The manure interacts with the microbes and natural elements in the horn and creates a very specific concentrated fertilizer that is diluted into a spray to improve the health of the soil and plants.  Cow manure is also used in composting – which any gardener knows is good for the soil.

Biodynamic winegrowing also taps into astronomy and follows lunar and celestial phases to create a calendar that guides vineyard and winemaking tasks.  There are: Fruit Days, Root Days, Flower Days, Leaf Days, and Rest Days and each have corresponding vineyard and cellar tasks. Think of it kind of like the Farmer’s Almanac.

Some even say the taste of the wine is affected and will be better on fruit or flower days.  Does that mean a Rest Day is when you drank too much the night before? Ha!  I have been informed, no, it does not mean that.

If you want to taste wine by the Biodynamic calendar, …let us know what you think.

HOW TO KNOW IF A WINE IS BIODYNAMIC?

Biodynamic is a certification like organic so there will be special logos and language on the label. Demeter certifies Biodynamic Internationally and in the US.

The bottle usually also says “Biodynamic Wines” or “Made with Biodynamic Grapes”

Made with Biodynamic Grapes – the grapes were farmed using certified Biodynamic practices

Biodynamic Wine – certified Biodynamic grapes were used (as above) AND very strict Biodynamic winemaking practices were used.

  ARE BIODYNAMIC WINES BETTER?

That is in the eye (or mouth) of the beholder.  For those who seek to taste the place (terroir) then a Biodynamic Wine is the vintage and place laid bare.  Commercial yeast and other common winemaking interventions are not allowed. Wines “Made with Biodynamic Grapes” still support holistic farming but have a few more tools for winemaking – similar to organic restrictions.  And certainly there are many winegrowers who do not seek certification but combine different sustainable practices to honor the earth and reflect a sense of place in their wines.

Here is a link to the most updated list of Demeter certified Biodynamic wineries  worldwide as of April 2018 and we’ve pulled out the Oregon and Washington ones below:

OREGON

  • Analemma Wines
  • Winderlea
  • Brooks
  • Keeler Estate Vineyard
  • Brick House Vineyards
  • Cooper Mountain Vineyards
  • Johan Vineyards
  • King Estate
  • Montinore Estate
  • Cowhorn
  • Upper Five Vineyard

WASHINGTON

  • Wilridge Vineyard, Winery & Distillery
  • Hedges Family Estate

WINES HIGHLIGHTED ON KGW PORTLAND TODAY:

Cowhorn Vineyard and Garden 2016 Spiral 36 Applegate Valley Blend of Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne

Spicy, fruity, floral with notes of jasmine, orange blossom, tropical fruit, and spiced baked apples. Try their lovely line up of Southern Rhone style wines.

Keeler Estate Vineyard 2016 Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Gris

The warm sunny floral and light fruit notes of summer. This wine tastes like a visit to Keeler’s beautiful vineyard feels.

Brooks 2015 Rastaban Eola-Amity Hills Brooks Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir

The bright fresh red cherry fruit flavors this AVA is known for.  Brooks’ Chef Abby says to pair with  asiago cheese for maximum enjoyment.